The best things to do in Recife, Brazil: a local’s guide

I know I’m biased, since I was born and raised in Recife and love my hometown. But I do believe that the capital of Pernambuco, in the Northeast of Brazil, is one of the most interesting Brazilian capitals cultural-wise. Unfortunately, most tourists ignore many of its best places. In this article I’ll share with you my favorite things to do in Recife, from typical tourist attractions to off-the-beaten-path recommendations.

I’ll also answer some common questions for those planning a trip to Recife: when to come, how long to stay, how to get around, and where to stay.

If you still have questions after reading this, let me know in the comments! And if you want personalized help to plan your trip to Brazil, or Portuguese lessons to make sure you get around fine, write to me at [email protected].

You might also like to read:

• Where to stay in Recife and Olinda, Brazil
• Best things to do in Porto de Galinhas, Brazil
• Where to stay in Rio de Janeiro: accommodation tips

When is the best time to go to Recife?

The best time to visit Recife is during the summer, which in the Southern hemisphere goes from December to March. In that period there is usually little rain, beautiful sunny days and many pre-Carnival and Carnival parties and rehearsals in Recife and its neighboring city, Olinda.

However, springtime is also great, especially if you plan on visiting some of the beautiful beaches in Pernambuco or its neighboring states and would like to avoid the crowds. From September to November, it’s still low season, but the weather is usually quite good.

From April to August, though, you should be prepared to deal with lots of rainy days. If going to the beach is a priority for you, this isn’t the best time. On the other hand, we celebrate a very traditional party called São João in late June, which is a lot of fun. If you’re planning on visiting the countryside of Pernambuco (especially the region called Sertão, our ‘backlands’), winter is the ideal, because this area gets extremely hot during the summer.

Are you thinking about spending Carnival in Recife or Olinda? Check out this carnival survival guide I wrote.

How long should you stay in Recife?

For most destinations, my answer to questions like “how long should I stay there” is basically “it depends”. After all, any place offers other possibilities beyond a checklist of tourist attractions.

If you just want to see Recife’s main attractions in a more superficial way, 2 days are enough. But if you want to explore the city in a more immersive way, taking your time in each place I recommend here, and visit other destinations around the city, it’s worth staying longer. At the end of this article, you will find a suggested itinerary for 3 to 5 days.

How to get around Recife

There is a subway system in Recife, but it’s not so useful for tourists, as it runs through a very limited part of the city. If you want to use public transport, go for the buses. However, beware that most bus stops around the city don’t indicate which buses stop there. I recommend checking the routes on apps like Moovit.

As of June 2024, the fare for the most common buses is R$ 4,10, but there are some that are called “Opcional” and cost either R$ 5,15 or R$ 7,10. The buses to Porto de Galinhas currently cost R$ 13,70 (without AC) or R$ 20,05 (with AC). The subway ticket currently costs R$4,25.

Unfortunately, traffic in Recife is one of the worst in Brazil, so be prepared to spend a lot of time in traffic jams if you travel during rush hours.

If you want more comfort, it’s worth using taxis, Uber or another ride-share app called 99. I don’t think it’s worth renting a car, unless you’re planning to spend a short time in the city and head to a nearby beach.

Where to stay in Recife

Although my beloved Recife offers many more attractions than the famous Boa Viagem beach, almost all of the city’s hotels and B&Bs are located there. For sightseeing and beach vibes, I recommend looking for a hotel in this area, but closer to Praia do Pina, which is the beach closest to the city center.

If you’re looking for seasonal rental rooms or apartments, such as Airbnb ones, I recommend pleasant residential neighborhoods like Espinheiro and Graças, which are safe, centric and have many good bars and restaurants.

For a more laid-back or bohemian experience, consider staying in Olinda, a city right next to Recife, in the neighborhood known as Cidade Alta or Sítio Histórico. That is the historic area of the city, which is quite charming and has a small-town feel. This is also the best location if you’re coming for Carnival.

For more information, read the full article I wrote about where to stay in Recife and Olinda. You can also click here and check out all the options of hotels, hostels, inns and apartments to stay in Recife on the dates of your trip.

The best things to do in Recife

Now, let’s get to the theme of this article: what are the best things to do in Recife? I will separate the recommendations by regions of the city. You can see which places you find most interesting and mark them on Google Maps to organize your itinerary or go to the end of this article to see my suggested itinerary.

Things to do in Recife Antigo

If you’re wondering what to do in Recife in just one day, don’t think twice: go stroll around Recife Antigo, the city’s “Old Town”.

The most touristic neighborhood in Recife, officially called Bairro do Recife, is located in the central region of the capital and is quite lovely. Simply walking aimlessly through its cobblestone streets is worth the visit, but Recife Antigo also hosts several cool attractions, as well as good bars and restaurants.

And it’s not just for tourists to see: it also houses the largest technology hub in the North-Northeast of Brazil and is one of the main leisure and cultural centers for residents. I used to work there and go there often with friends and family.

Marco Zero and Parque das Esculturas

You can start the tour at Barão do Rio Branco square, better known as Marco Zero (Ground Zero). In addition to being the starting point for marking local road distances, this square is the main stage for cultural events such as Recife’s Carnival parties.

From the square, on the other side of the Capibaribe River estuary, you’ll see Francisco Brennand’s Sculpture Park (Parque das Esculturas), whose ceramic works can be seen up close after a 5-minute boat ride. There are usually boatmen on the edge of Marco Zero square offering the crossing (they charge around R$10 for the round trip). I love seeing Recife Antigo from that angle.

Around Marco Zero you will also find a complex of restaurants and bars, the Centro de Artesanato de Pernambuco (Pernambuco Crafts Center, which is a great place for souvenir shopping) and beautiful buildings such as Caixa Cultural, a cultural center where interesting exhibitions often take place.

Cais do Sertão Museum

A few steps away is the Cais do Sertão museum, one of the coolest museums I’ve ever visited. It’s inspired on the life of a local musician Luiz Gonzaga, which is very famous nationwide, and uses it as sort of a guiding thread to tell stories about Pernambuco’s countryside (Sertão).

It was installed in old warehouses in the Port of Recife and uses technological resources to address different facets of daily life in this part of the country: living, working, singing, occupying, believing, migrating and creating. You can even sing typical songs in a karaoke and learn to play some instruments.

Address: Cais do Sertão – Armazém 10, Av. Alfredo Lisboa, s/n

Arsenal Square and Paço do Frevo Museum

From there, head back towards Praça do Arsenal (Arsenal Square), where the Malakoff Tower is located. This a cultural space that houses exhibitions, an astronomical observatory and a viewpoint. Around the square you will also find bars and restaurants with a pleasant atmosphere.

But the biggest highlight there is Paço do Frevo, a museum dedicated to Frevo, which is a musical rhythm and dance extremely important for Pernambuco (and played everywhere during our Carnival parties).

The collection is not that large, and most things are in Portuguese only, but it’s a beautiful place. You’ll get to hear the frevo playing, observe the details of the estandartes (banners held by Carnival groups) displayed beneath your feet, and see the photos that showcase a bit of what this cultural celebration is about.

You can also take part in free workshops to learn how to dance a bit of frevo, depending on their schedule.

Address: Rua da Guia, 117, Bairro do Recife

Bom Jesus street

Right next door is the most beautiful street in the neighborhood (it was voted as one of the most beautiful in the world, which is quite an exaggeration), Rua do Bom Jesus.

In addition to the colorful buildings, it houses the first synagogue in the Americas, Kahal Zur Israel, which can be visited. On the same street, you will also find the Embaixada dos Bonecos Gigantes, a very simple “museum” that houses several of the giant dolls that are a trademark of our Carnival.

Livraria Jaqueira, Madre de Deus Church and Moeda Street

Something I used to love doing in Recife Antigo was going to Paço Alfândega, a small shopping mall built in an old and charming building; I would always go to the top floor to see the view. However, it was recently turned into an office building and entry isn’t free anymore.

But it’s still worth going there and checking out the Livraria Jaqueira, a big bookstore on the ground floor of the parking lot. Besides books, they also sell stationary, wine, and have a café. There are also two or three restaurants next to it.

On your way there you can also take a look at the Madre de Deus Church, one of the most beautiful in the city, which is right next to the Paço Alfândega. And if you’re in a bohemian mood, head to one of the bars on famous Rua da Moeda, right across the street.

Address: Rua da Alfândega, 35, Bairro do Recife

Catamaran Tour

Another attraction that has always shown up on my lists of the best things do in Recife is the trip with Catamaran Tours, a company that offers a few different catamaran tour itineraries along the Capibaribe River. My favorite is the one that goes under the city’s main bridges at sunset. It’s super nice.

There is also a sporadic route that goes to Ilha de Deus, which isn’t well known by tourists (or even most locals). Located a 10-minute drive from the center of Recife, Ilha de Deus (God’s Island) was once called the “Island without God”, due to the lack of infrastructure and to the violence that happened there.

But the reality of the place changed a lot in the past decade or so, and one of the drivers for this transformation was tourism. Nowadays you can visit the community and learn about the work of the seafood collectors that live there, eat seafood at the Negra Linda bistro and even see a frevo presentation.

Things to do in Recife’s city center

From Recife Antigo you can walk to the city’s downtown area. Cross the bridge that leads to Praça da República (Ponte Buarque de Macedo) and walk through the neighborhoods of Santo Antônio, São José and Boa Vista, which make up the city center.

This itinerary doesn’t appear on most lists of things to do in Recife that I’ve seen, but it’s really cool for those who want to get to know Recife beyond mass tourism.

República Square

In Praça da República (República Square) you will find a beautiful baobab tree, and around it are two historic buildings: the beautiful Santa Isabel Theater and the Palácio do Campo das Princesas, headquarters of the state government. Both can be visited for free on specific days.

Capela Dourada

Near Praça da República you’ll also find the Capela dos Noviços da Ordem Terceira de São Francisco de Assis (Chapel of Novices of the Third Order of Saint Francis of Assisi), better known as Capela Dourada (Golden Chapel), which is part of the complex of buildings of the Convent and Church of Saint Anthony.

Its construction began in 1696, making the Golden Chapel the first temple in Brazil completely covered in baroque decoration. It’s VERY golden, hehe.

Address: Altura da Rua Siqueira Campos, R. do Imperador Pedro II, S/N – Santo Antônio

Basilica and Convent of Nossa Senhora do Carmo

From there you can walk to the Basilica and Convent of Nossa Senhora do Carmo, patron saint of Recife, which belongs to the Carmelite Order. Its 50-meter-high tower is the tallest baroque tower in Brazil.

The head of the quilombola leader Zumbi dos Palmares was exposed in his courtyard after he was brutally killed, and today there is a statue there in his honor. Quilombola is how we call the enslaved people who resisted the slavery regime in Brazil and formed settlements (quilombos), and Zumbi is the most famous of them.

Address: Avenida Dantas Barreto s/n

Pátio de São Pedro

From there you can quickly reach Pátio de São Pedro (Saint Peter’s Courtyard), a large rectangular square surrounded by old buildings. The main one is the Co-Cathedral of São Pedro dos Clérigos, better known as the Igreja de São Pedro (Saint Peter’s Church). The space is often the stage for artistic attractions.

If you like sea food, it is well worth having lunch at the restaurant called São Pedro, opened by chef Thiago Chagas to contribute to the revitalization of the area, which had been neglected by the public authorities. They get fresh ingredients from nearby São José Market.

São José Market

Mercado de São José (São José Market) is also top on my list of best things to do in Recife. Inaugurated in 1875, it was the first prefabricated iron building in Brazil, with the same neoclassical structure as the 19th century European markets.

In addition to being beautiful, this historical heritage site houses several stands selling crafts made of materials such as clay, wood, lace and straw, as well as herbs, honey, grains, fish and a multitude of other things.

Address: Praça Dom Vital, s/n – São José

Museu da Cidade do Recife

Another attraction in the São José neighborhood is the Museu da Cidade do Recife (Recife City Museum). It operates in the historic Forte das Cinco Pontas (Five Points Fort), which is interesting in itself.

The Museum’s collection consists of photographs, maps and archaeological fragments that represent the history of Recife’s urban evolution from the 17th century to the present day.

Address: Praça das Cinco Pontas, s/n – São José

Casa da Cultura

Another old building repurposed as cultural equipment in this area is the Casa da Cultura (Culture House), a former prison that was transformed into a crafts center in 1975. The shop boxes were installed where the old cells used to be.

The place is a little run down, but if you’re in the area it’s worth a visit for the history and to take a look at the local crafts, and maybe buying some souvenirs.

Address: Rua Floriano Peixoto, s/n – Santo Antônio

Museu do Trem

Right near Casa da Cultura is the Museu do Trem (Train Museum), a railway museum created in the 19th century building of the old Recife Central Station. The place is very simple, but I think it’s worth going there on an unpretentious visit.

There are hundreds of pieces about Pernambuco’s railway memory, such as locomotives, seats, ticket booths, stampers, flags, whistles and clocks, as well as photographs, posters, texts (all in Portuguese, if I’m not mistaken) and videos.

Address: R. Floriano Peixoto, s/n – São José

Rua da Aurora and Museu de Arte Moderna

In the Boa Vista neighborhood, which is next to São José, the iconic Rua da Aurora (Aurora Street) is home to very nice colorful houses, which you might have seen depicted in photos of Recife.

You’ll also find there the Modern Art Museum called Museu de Arte Moderna Aloísio Magalhães – Mamam. Housed in an old 19th century mansion, it hosts exhibitions of modern and contemporary art.

Address: Rua da Aurora, 265, Boa Vista

Cinema São Luiz

Very close to Mamam is the iconic São Luiz Cinema. Opened in 1952, it was listed as a historical monument by the State government in 2008. One of the few remaining street cinemas in the country, São Luiz annually hosts the Recife Janela International Film Festival. It is very beautiful inside; If you can, watch a movie there and admire the stained glass windows.

Address: Rua Aurora, 175

Boa Vista Market

The Greater Recife Area has more than 20 markets spread across different neighborhoods, which tell a part of our history and culture. Among the most interesting ones for tourists, I would also include the Boa Vista one.

It is very traditional, but small, and there you’ll mainly find food stalls. The boxes function as bars and restaurants, making it a great choice for a regional lunch. On weekends, I recommend you arrive very early (like 11 am) to get a place to sit. If you don’t like heat, avoid going there during the summer.

Address: R. da Santa Cruz, 144 – Boa Vista

Bike tours in Recife

If you want to get to know some of Recife’s main tourist attractions in a more “alternative” way, I highly recommend the guided bike tours promoted by La Ursa.

This company offers a route that starts in Boa Viagem beach and goes to the Recife’s city center, passing through some of the places I mentioned above. The tour is done with rental bicycles operated by TemBici, and you get to cross from Parque das Esculturas to Marco Zero with the bicycles in a small boat (which I personally find quite fun).

Another itinerary option by La Ursa is the one that leaves from Recife Antigo and goes to the neighboring city of Olinda, which I’ve also done and really liked. They also offer a tour to see the full moon rise near Marco Zero – this one is without bikes, but it’s super cool.

Famous tourist attractions in Recife

So far I haven’t mentioned three of the most famous things to do in Recife, and have you seen how much more is there to do? But now let’s get to it:

Boa Viagem beach

Maybe you’re wondering where the beach is in this itinerary, right? Most people immediately think of this when they talk about what to do in Recife, but I like to show tourists that the city goes far beyond that. Which doesn’t mean, of course, that Praia de Boa Viagem, the main urban beach and one of the city’s postcards, isn’t worth enjoying.

Recife’s coastline isn’t the most beautiful in the country, but it has its charm. And you’ll probably stay there, as the neighborhood is home to the vast majority of Recife’s hotels and hostels, as I mentioned above.

My favorite part of going to the beach in Recife is eating the food sold by the vendors that walk by the sand (broths, quail eggs, roasted cheese, shrimp, etc.), as well as caipirinhas or caipiroscas made with local fruits such as acerola and umbu-cajá (some beach stalls offer them, such as Barraca do Pingo).

As you may have heard, it is not recommended to go into the sea in Recife, as there have been shark attacks since the Suape Port was built nearby. But if it’s really shallow, with low tide and clear skies, I’ll risk a quick swim.

Another delicious (and shark-free) option is to run or cycle along the coast: the promenade is about 8km long, with a jogging track, a cycle path and several rental bike stations.

Boa Viagem is also home to the Feirinha de Boa Viagem, with craft stalls and occasional cultural presentations, and Dona Lindu Park, where some concerts and events take place.

In case you’ve seen the great film Aquarius, by Pernambuco director Kleber Mendonça Filho, don’t miss out on seeing the façade of the charming building where the protagonist lives. The name of the Aquarius Building in real life is Edifício Oceania and it is located at Avenida Boa Viagem, 560.

Ricardo Brennand Institute

Another staple on most lists of best things to do in Recife is the Instituto Brennand (Brennand Institute), which was even chosen as the best museum in Latin America by TripAdvisor. I’m not a big fan of it, but many tourists seem to like it.

There you will find a large “medieval-like” castle, a picture gallery with several works by Frans Post (the first European artist to paint landscapes of the Americas, during the Dutch occupation in Brazil), as well as oils and engravings by other artists, reproductions of famous paintings, tapestries, sculptures, furniture and a large collection of bladed weapons, including swords, daggers, knives and armor.

Address: Alameda Antônio Brennand, s/n – São João – Várzea

Francisco Brennand Workshop

Near Brennand Institute is Oficina Brennand, the workshop of Ricardo’s cousin, Francisco. He is the same artist responsible for the ceramic sculptures you see from Marco Zero and for several works spread across panels and buildings in the city. A few decades ago, most rich people “had” to have Brennand ceramics at home.

Installed in an old brick and tile factory inherited by the artist, on the land of Engenho Santos Cosme e Damião, the museum and studio complex houses hundreds of sculptures, murals, panels, paintings, drawings and ceramic objects signed by Brennand, inspired by mythology Roman Greek, history, fauna and flora and many phallic themes.

Address: Santos Cosme e Damião Property, s/n, Várzea

North Zone of Recife

One of the most beautiful regions of Recife is ignored by most tourists, but I hope you don’t do the same. The Zona Norte (North Zone, as opposed to Zona Sul – South Zone, where Boa Viagem is located) is home to charming neighborhoods such as Casa Forte, Jaqueira, Graças and Espinheiro.

In addition to having some tree-lined and pleasant streets and great restaurants, bars and cafes, these residential neighborhoods are home to some great things to do in Recife.

I grew up in Casa Forte neighborhood. If you have the time to go there, I recommend stopping by Praça de Casa Forte (Casa Forte Square, also known as Praça da Vitória Régia, or Water Lilly Square). It was the first public garden created by famous Brazilian landscaper Burle Marx. In addition to enjoying the water lilies that decorate the square’s small ponds, you can go to one of the restaurants, bars and cafes around the square (I recommend the ice cream from Bellucci).

Then, cross Avenida 17 de Agosto (the neighborhood’s main avenue) and enter the historic Estrada Real do Poço (Real do Poço Street), one of the entrances to the charming neighborhood of Poço da Panela. This area feels like a small town, with its old houses and quiet streets.

It is mainly home to the upper middle class and many people who live there today inherited the houses built by aristocrats who wanted to benefit from the Capibaribe baths, which used to be considered good for their health.

In addition to walking aimlessly around this area, I suggest taking a look at the little church of Nossa Senhora da Saúde and the mini Abbey Road located on Rua Monsenhor Lôbo, painted on the wall and paved by a resident. There are also some cute bistros around there.

Other interesting things to do in Recife in this area are visiting the Museu do Homem do Nordeste (Museum of the Northeastern People) and the Casa-Museu Gilberto Freyre.

The first one is located at Av. 17 de Agosto, 218, and brings together works that represent the plurality of black, indigenous and white cultures that make up our country. I love their collection.

The Casa-Museu Gilberto Freyre (Gilberto Freyre House-Museum), located further on Rua Jorge Tasso Neto, Apipucos, houses the former residence of this famous sociologist from Pernambuco. In the 19th century mansion surrounded by an ecological site, you’ll get to see personal objects, antique furniture, porcelain, silverware and pieces of popular art.

Best things to do in Recife: suggested itinerary day by day

Day 1: Tour of Recife Antigo (Old Recife)

If you visit all the museums and cultural facilities, eat in a restaurant and take a catamaran tour, you can reserve a whole day for Recife Antigo and extend it into the night. If you just want to walk around and visit one or two museums, an afternoon may be enough, possibly combined with a morning at the beach or in Olinda’s Historic Center.

Day 2: Beach + Bike ride or Bike ride + City center

Spend the morning at Boa Viagem beach and then take the La Ursa Tours tour that leaves from Boa Viagem and goes to the Recife’s City Center, or start the day with the bike ride and walk around the Center when you get there, at the end of the tour.

Day 3: Casa Forte and Brennand Museums

If you feel like doing something more off-the-beaten-path you can take an Uber or bus to Praça de Casa Forte, walk around Poço da Panela, go to the Museu do Homem do Nordeste, visit the Casa-Museu Gilberto Freyre and then take an Uber to Instituto Brennand and/or Oficina Brennand.

Day 4: Olinda

When visiting Recife, don’t miss out on visiting the Historic Site of its neighboring city Olinda. It’s quite close, especially if you’re staying around Recife’s city center.

Day 5: Other attractions

Go spend a day eating and drinking at the beach, if you haven’t done it yet (or if you want to repeat it). You can also go explore other neighborhoods like Graças, visit other public markets like Mercado da Encruzilhada, eat at delicious restaurants such as Reteteu or Arvo… Or go on a day trip to one of the beaches close to Recife, such as Porto de Galinhas, Calhetas or Itamaracá.

I hope you liked this article! Do you have any questions about what to do in Recife? Tell me in the comments section! And if you need help planning your trip to Brazil, shoot me a message at [email protected] to inquire about my travel planning services and Portuguese lessons.