Brazilian Carnival: A Local’s Guide for Visitors

Brazilian Carnival isn’t just a party — it’s a cultural phenomenon that transforms many parts of the country into a dazzling stage of vibrant colors, contagious music, and seemingly endless energy. Celebrated every year before Lent, this festival takes on many forms across Brazil, but they all share one thing: the joy and community spirit Brazilians are famous for.

Here in Brazil, we usually say that the year doesn’t really begin until Carnival is over. From Rio de Janeiro’s world-famous samba parades to the lively streets of Salvador and the traditional rhythms of Recife and Olinda, Brazilian Carnival offers a one-of-a-kind blend of history, culture, and sheer joy.

As someone born and raised in Recife and now based in Rio, I’m a lifelong Carnival lover, and I wrote this guide to share with foreigners what it’s like to be a part of this incredible celebration. Read on to discover everything you need to know about Carnival in Brazil and get ready to experience what might just be some of the most exciting moments of your life.

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What is Brazilian Carnival and how did it begin?

Brazilian Carnival traces its origins to European festivities brought by Portuguese colonizers. One of the earliest manifestations of the party was a festival known as entrudo. This event, celebrated in the 17th century, featured street games where participants threw water, flour, and fruit at each other, marking the beginning of a joyful period before Lent.

Around the 19th century, the entrudo started being criminalized and the upper class introduced European-inspired masked balls, restricted to the elite. Over time, the working class began creating their own street celebrations, which were called “ranchos” and “cordões”, and eventually originated what we now call blocos de rua (groups of people who go out in the streets following a music group).

It was also in the 19th century that the first marchinhas de Carnaval (a musical genre created specifically for the festivities) emerged. Later, samba was created and became one of the most iconic elements of Carnival. Moving into the 20th and 21st centuries, new styles further enriched the celebration, like afoxé in Bahia and frevo in Pernambuco.

Rhythms like afoxé, samba, maracatu, and axé have African roots. Along with other popular influences, Afro-Brazilian communities transformed Carnival into a space for resistance and cultural expression. This cultural fusion is what makes Carnival in Brazil a unique experience, with each region contributing its distinct characteristics and traditions.

Today, Carnival is one of the most representative expressions of Brazilian identity. It’s a space where people connect with their roots, celebrate diversity, and reaffirm values that are very important to us, like joy, creativity, and unity. It’s also a period of collective catharsis—an opportunity to escape everyday concerns and enjoy life to the fullest.

When is Carnival?

Carnival celebrates the period leading up to Lent, ending on Ash Wednesday. Its official dates vary from year to year, like Easter, but it always takes place either in February or March.

During this period, for obvious reasons, accommodation prices in famous Carnival destinations tend to be very high. If you can’t afford it or won’t be in Brazil in that specific time of the year, though, you might still be able to get a taste of Carnival by enjoying one of the pre-Carnival parties (also known as “prévias”).

These are rehearsals and smaller parties that emulate the actual Carnival. In cities like Rio and Olinda, they start as early as the first weekend of January (or even before that – there are some blocos in Olinda starting in September) and grow stronger two or three weeks before Carnival.

In cities like Rio de Janeiro and São Paulo, the period before Carnival is a good opportunity to see the rehearsals of samba schools for free – the experience isn’t anything like the “official” one, with all the décor, costumes and crowds, but it’s still worth it.

Top Destinations to Experience Carnival in Brazil

Rio de Janeiro: Samba and Street Blocos

When you think about Brazilian Carnival, you probably think of Rio de Janeiro. Known as the “Marvelous City” (Cidade Maravilhosa), Rio really is one of the most magnetic places in the world, and its Carnival is sure worth seeing and experiencing. Its samba parades and street parties attract tourists from all over, and when you want a break from all the craziness you can easily hit the beach or go hiking without leaving the city.

Rio’s Carnival is basically made up of two different types of parties: the samba parades at the Sambadrome, which require tickets and are mostly about watching an elaborate performance, and the street “blocos”, which are informal and can be enjoyed for free.

The Iconic Parade at the Sambadrome

The Sambadrome (Sambódromo) Marquês de Sapucaí, designed by renowned Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer, serves as the stage for the samba school parades. Samba schools (escolas de samba) is how we call clubs that organize the massive parades. They are usually associated with a specific neighborhood, and their members spend most of the year preparing and practicing for Carnival.

Each Carnival night, thousands of spectators gather at the Sambadrome to witness the spectacle: samba schools parade with giant floats, elaborate costumes, and perfectly synchronized choreography. Each school chooses a theme (enredo) to tell a story through their music, dance, and visuals.

And they’re all competing against each other: there are judges that take into consideration several categories to give them rates and finally choose that year’s winner.

Attending the Sambadrome is an awe-inspiring experience. The samba schools, many with decades of history, have thousands of members, including musicians, dancers, artisans, and designers, all collaborating to create a grand show. Many of the people who go watch them are emotionally involved with it, and root for their school as if it was a sports team.

Street Blocks (Blocos)

While the Sambadrome parades are the most famous face of Rio’s Carnival, the blocos de rua represent its most democratic spirit. These street parties are open-air events that wind through the city’s streets, and anyone can attend them.

Each bloco has its own identity and musical style. Some are small, while others, like Cordão da Bola Preta, draw massive crowds. Some date back decades and are cultural icons, while others are newer, catering to modern tastes and younger generations.

Following a musical group, crowds dance and sing along to rhythms that can include samba, marchinhas (traditional Carnival songs), funk, axé, and modern music. Some groups are made up of professional musicians, but in most cases they’re young people who only started playing as a way to take part in the Carnival performances. Musical quality isn’t always guaranteed, but most people don’t seem to care.

Joining a bloco doesn’t require tickets or advanced planning. Simply check the schedules and locations (which are usually published in apps or social media profiles or sent around on Whatsapp groups) and join the fun. However, it’s good to follow some practical tips that I’ll share at the end of this article to make sure you have a positive experience.

Keep reading:

Where to stay in Rio de Janeiro: the best locations
41 free things to do in Rio de Janeiro

Salvador de Bahia: The Energy of Axé

Salvador, the capital of Bahia, is also quite famous, but offers a very different Carnival experience. It’s a massive celebration deeply connected to Afro-Brazilian cultural roots, with its own traditions and logistics.

In this beautiful city, the main rhythm of Carnival is axé, a genre born in Bahia that blends African, Caribbean, and Brazilian influences. One of its main features are the trios elétricos—massive trucks equipped with powerful sound systems. Artists and bands perform live atop these trucks as they move through the streets, followed by euphoric crowds.

During the festivities, the city’s main avenues become stages for music and dance, with different “circuits” such as the Barra-Ondina (or Dodô), the Osmar (or Campo Grande) and Batatinha. The foliões (participants) follow the trios elétricos, forming blocos, each led by a specific artist or band. Notable names include Ivete Sangalo, Bell Marques, Claudia Leitte, and Daniela Mercury.

It all takes place on the streets, but the blocos are usually enclosed by a large rope. To stay inside the rope, where it’s safer and closer to the music, you need to pay. Tickets are provided in the form of abadás (special shirts that many people customize). Those who don’t pay can still join the fun from outside the rope, in an area known as pipoca (which means popcorn, a nod to the way the crowd jumps up and down like kernels popping).

For those who prefer a more exclusive experience, there are also camarotes (VIP lounges), which offer a privileged view of the parades along with premium services such as food, drinks, and additional performances. As you can imagine, they’re quite expensive.

You might also like this article: Where to stay in Salvador, Bahia

Recife and Olinda: A Multicultural Carnival

I’m from Pernambuco, a state located in the Northeast of Brazil. Its capital city, Recife, and neighboring Olinda both have very strong Carnival traditions (as well as some parts of the state’s countryside). I know I’m biased but believe me: Pernambuco’s Carnival is one of the most authentic and vibrant celebrations in Brazil.

This festival offers a unique experience with cultural traditions and inclusion as its fundamental pillars. The rich history of both cities creates a diverse environment where participation is highly democratic – there are some paid parties, but they’re much less relevant than the street blocos, which are all free.

Frevo and Maracatu

In Pernambuco’s Carnival you’ll hear some musical rhythms that are present in other parts of the country, like samba, axé and funk. But the core of the party is made up of local rhythms, especially frevo and maracatu.

Frevo is a frenetic and joyful rhythm declared an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity by UNESCO. It combines instrumental music with energetic, acrobatic dance, using colorful umbrellas as accessories. The intensity of its music fills the streets with energy, and to locals this feels almost like a religious experience.

Frevo is a complex rhythm, and the groups that play it are called orchestras, which are always made up of professional musicians. The maestros of the Frevo Orchestras are often over 70 or 80 years old, and I find it very impressive that they can still handle the madness and the heat of the street parties so well.

Maracatu is another tradition originating in Pernambuco, with Afro-Brazilian roots. It’s divided into two main forms: Maracatu Nação (also known as Baque Virado) and Maracatu Rural. Maracatu Nação has a ceremonial character and is related to the coronations of Congo kings. Maracatu Rural, or Baque Solto, reflects the traditions of rural workers. A key figure in Maracatu Rural is the beautiful caboclo de lança, whose outfit is covered with sequins.

Besides these two rhythms, you’ll also find stages and performances showcasing other traditional music from Pernambuco like coco, caboclinho, ciranda and manguebeat. Since the two cities are located right next to each other, you can enjoy Carnival in both of them, but there are some differences.

Recife’s Carnival

One of the highlights of Recife’s Carnival is the parade of the bloco Galo da Madrugada. Every Carnival Saturday, a crowd of millions gathers in downtown Recife to follow the imposing Galo, a giant decorative rooster figure that leads the celebration to the rhythm of frevo, officially inaugurating our Carnival. It was once considered the largest Carnival parade in the world according to the Guinness World Records.

In addition to the Galo, the atmosphere in Recife is dynamic and festive. There are blocos in many streets of Recife Antigo neighborhood (Recife’s old town) and its surroundings, but if you want a break from the party, you can easily escape to other more relaxed neighborhoods.

Besides the Galo, what Recife is really strong on is the night parties. A big stage in Recife Antigo and multiple stages scattered across the city offer free concerts of Brazilian music in the evenings.

Olinda’s Carnival

During the day, you’ll find more blocos in Olinda. The cobblestone streets and hills of its colonial old town (this part is called Cidade Alta or Sítio Histórico) are closed for car traffic during the whole Carnival, and blocos go up and down non-stop. Everyone is welcome to join – you just need to gather a lot of energy to handle the heat and the crowds.

One peculiar aspect of Olinda’s Carnival is the giant puppets (bonecos gigantes) that are used in many blocos. These caricatured characters represent both local and universal figures, from local artists to John Travolta (there’s a great bloco named after him, by the way).

Many people rent houses in the heart of the festivities, and I recommend doing that if you want to be immersed in the party 24/7. It’s probably going to be hard to get proper rest, but it’s so much fun! Even if you don’t leave the house, you can enjoy the party by seeing the blocos pass you by.

Just like in Rio, there are both large and small blocos. But since they’re concentrated in a relatively small area, you can move on foot every day and stumble on different blocos by chance, whereas in Rio you need to travel to different parts of the city.

You might also like to read:

The best things to do in Recife, Pernambuco
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Other Cities to Enjoy Carnival in Brazil

Although the carnivals of Rio de Janeiro, Salvador, Recife, and Olinda are the most recognized, other Brazilian cities also have interesting celebrations. Even though I’m Brazilian and a big fan of Carnival, I’m not aware of everything that happens all around the country, since it’s so big in diverse, so I might be leaving something out of this list. However, these are the main places which have been getting more and more popular:

Belo Horizonte

Until recently, Belo Horizonte wasn’t an important carnival destination. However, in the last decade or so, the capital of Minas Gerais has transformed. What began with small street groups claiming the use of public space against some politicians’ will has evolved into a growing carnival that attracts more and more people each year.

The blocos are the heart of the celebration, with options for every taste, from traditional Brazilian rhythms to more alternative propositions. According to a friend who was involved in the creation of their blocos, they were heavily inspired by Pernambuco’s Carnival. In Belo Horizonte, it’s possible to enjoy frevo, maracatu, and samba, but you can also find thematic blocos that play rock, pop, and even electronic music.

São Paulo

Known as Brazil’s financial hub, São Paulo has also seen a significant rise in its Carnival celebrations in recent years. Most people I know used to leave the capital during this time of the year, either to enjoy Carnival parties somewhere else or to spend the holidays at some nearby beach. However, that has been changing.

São Paulo offers both organized parades and street parties. Like in Rio, the Sambódromo do Anhembi hosts parades and competitions by local samba schools. But beyond the Sambadrome, the blocos de rua have become the major attraction there.

Neighborhoods like Vila Madalena, Pinheiros, and downtown (Centro) become filled with music, dancing, and a vibrant atmosphere. São Paulo also offers a wide variety of music, with blocos dedicated to genres such as funk, axé, samba-rock, and international rhythms.

Keep reading: Where to stay in São Paulo

Florianópolis

In the South of Brazil, Florianópolis, also known as Floripa, is a very popular destination among foreigners (mainly Argentinians) for its beautiful beaches and its nightlife. Although theirs is far from being one of Brazil’s most traditional Carnivals, there’s plenty of partying there too.

The heart of Floripa’s Carnival beats at the Passarela do Samba Nego Quirido, where samba schools parade. Meanwhile, blocos also take the streets of neighborhoods like Centro (downtown), Lagoa da Conceição, Santo Antônio de Lisboa, and Armação.

Carnival balls are another aspect of the party in Floripa. Additionally, the city stands out for having one of the most vibrant LGBTQIA+ friendly celebrations, with traditional events like Pop Gay, a contest held on Carnival Monday.

You might also like to read our articles on what to do in Florianópolis and where to stay in Florianópolis.

The Northern Region

Up North, states like Amazonas and Pará also host Carnival celebrations. There, the parties are often more mixed with indigenous influences, combining typical Carnival rhythms like samba and axé with local traditions like Boi-Bumbá.

In Manaus, there’s the Carnaboi, which takes elements from the Festival de Parintins, a huge folkloric festivity that happens in June. There, and in cities like Belém (Pará) and Porto Velho (Rondônia), there are also street blocos.

Important Tips for Enjoying Brazilian Carnival

If you’re planning to experience the magic of Brazilian Carnival, some practical tips can make the difference between an unforgettable experience and one full of setbacks. Here’s what you need to know to make the most of it:

Planning: Prepare for Your Adventure

Carnival in Brazil is one of the most popular festivals in the world, meaning millions of people travel to participate in it. Therefore, early planning is key.

• Choose your destination wisely: Each city offers a unique experience. Do your research, talk to people and thoughtfully decide what kind of atmosphere you’re most interested in.
• Book flights and accommodation early: Popular cities like Rio de Janeiro, Salvador, and Olinda tend to fill up quickly. Try to make your bookings at least three or four months in advance to secure good accommodation and reasonable prices.
• Buy tickets in advance: If you plan to attend the parades at the Sambódromo, purchase your tickets early, as they tend to sell out quickly.
• Get informed about the best blocos: if you’re planning on hitting the street parties, find out when and where the best ones take place. You’ll usually find official information online, but it’s good to ask locals about their recommendations.
• Be on time for the blocos: The “concentração” is the meeting time for the blocos. Not all of them start on time but try not to be late or you might miss it, and depending on the location it might be hard to find it.

Safety: Enjoy Responsibly

Carnival in Brazil is a massive event, and like any large-scale gathering, it’s important to take precautions for a safe experience.

• Take care of your belongings: The safest choice is to only carry what’s really necessary, like cash and ID, but I must say I don’t follow that myself, since most street vendors take cards, and a mobile phone is useful for getting around and finding friends. If you have a burner phone, leave the official one at home and take the old or cheap one. If you have an expensive phone, try to get it insured just in case. If possible, delete banking apps. Never ever keep valuables in your pockets or in purses that can be easily opened in the middle of the crowd. I recommend you keep all valuables in a money belt, worn under your clothes, and use a fanny pack for other items.
• Set meeting points with your friends in case you get separated: In crowded places it might be difficult to use mobile phones because of the massive number of people, and if you try calling your friends, they probably won’t hear.
• Avoid walking against the flow of the blocos: Want to leave the party? Unless it’s a very small bloco, it’s more advisable to either take a perpendicular street or wait for the crowd to pass than to try and go on the opposite direction.
• Avoid isolated areas: Stick to crowded areas and follow the main routes of the blocos de rua. If you’re attending nighttime events, it’s best to go with others, preferably locals who know their way around.
• Stay hydrated and eat well: Don’t forget to take care of your body. Drink water regularly and eat before joining parties. Try to avoid heavy and suspicious food, if possible, because in most cases you won’t have easy access to clean toilets.
• Don’t forget to apply sunscreen: Carnival happens during Summertime in Brazil, and even on cloudy days you might get sunburnt after spending the whole day outside. Make sure you don’t get lobster red on your first day.
• Be cautious with alcohol and other drugs: There’s usually a high alcohol consumption in Carnival, besides illicit drugs. If you consume any, do so in moderation, follow harm reduction methods (don’t mix the wrong stuff) and make sure your drinks are always within your sight.
• Choose comfortable shoes: Avoid wearing sandals, flip-flops or other open shoes, because people will probably step on your feet, and you might kick some stuff while following the crowd. It’s best to wear comfortable snickers, and ones that you don’t mind getting very dirty – because they probably will.
• Bring condoms with you: Carnival is known for its flirty atmosphere, so it’s always smart to be prepared.

Etiquette: Embrace and Respect Traditions

Carnival isn’t just a party, but also a cultural expression with traditions that deserve respect. Here are some recommendations for participating in a mindful way:

• Be inclusive: Carnival is for everyone, and one of its beauties is the diversity of people and expressions. Participate with an open and respectful attitude toward different cultures, sexual orientations, and lifestyles.
• Enjoy the costumes: While not mandatory, wearing a costume can help you immerse yourself in the festive spirit. Choose something comfortable and avoid culturally appropriating religious or ethnic symbols. In places like Olinda, it’s common for people to wear clothes with the same colors of the main blocos they’re going to follow each day.
• Follow local rules and respect the flow: Blocos have specific routes and schedules. Respect the organizers’ guidelines and avoid blocking streets if you’re not actively participating. If a bloco is moving, don’t stand in the middle of it just chatting with your group of friends. If someone pushes you because they’re being pushed by the crowd behind them, don’t push back, just go with the flow. And never ever disrupt the band or orchestra.
• Remember that sexual harassment is a crime: Although it’s very common for people to flirt and make out during Carnival blocos, and you might even be surprised with the level of public displays of affection, never do anything without clear consent. Não é não (no means no).
• Learn a few phrases in Portuguese: A simple “obrigado(a)” (thank you), “com licença” (excuse me) or “desculpe” (sorry) can help you connect with locals and show appreciation for their hospitality. If you can, it’s worth learning a bit more than that, since even in tourist cities it might be hard to find people who speak good English. Read my guide on How to learn Brazilian Portuguese or reach out to me at [email protected] to find out more about my Portuguese lessons.
• Learn some of the main songs: Want to go a step further? Try learning the lyrics to the most popular Carnival songs. If you’re going to Pernambuco, Google the most famous frevo songs – they’ll be played over and over again, and it’s more fun if you can join the crowd and sing along. If you’re going to Rio, learn some marchinhas and ask around about the Brazilian songs that are that year’s “hits”. In Salvador, learn some songs from the lead artist or band whose bloco you’re going to follow.

Beyond Carnival: Discover Brazil

Although Carnival is Brazil’s largest and most famous celebration, the country has much more to offer. If you’re planning to travel here during this time of year, don’t let the festival be the only thing that piques your curiosity. Brazil is a nation full of natural wonders, rich cultural history, delicious cuisine, and more.

Also, the country has plenty of other traditional festivals that showcase its cultural diversity, such as the Festas Juninas in the Northeast, in late June, and the religious celebrations of Círio de Nazaré in Belém, in October, among many, many others.

Here are some articles that might inspire fun trips around Brazil:

The best things to do in Alter do Chão, Pará
The best things to do in Porto Seguro, Bahia
The best things to do in Porto de Galinhas, Pernambuco
The best things to do in Canoa Quebrada, Ceará
The best things to do in Manaus, Amazonas

Volunteer in Brazil with free accommodation

A great way to experience Brazil, whether during Carnival or at another time, is by volunteering through Worldpackers. This platform connects travelers with hosts around the world, offering work exchange opportunities in hostels, guest houses, permaculture projects, NGOs and so on.

The idea is simple: you offer your time and skills to help out a small business or non-profit, and receive accommodation and possibly other benefits, like meals and tours. This allows you to travel economically while connecting with local communities. Since the platform was created in Brazil, there are plenty of awesome opportunities around the country. I’ve traveled like this both in Brazil and abroad and highly recommend it!

For more information, read my complete guide on how Worldpackers works. And if you choose to sign up, click here or use my discount code JANELASABERTAS to get 10 USD off the any of their subscription plans.

I hope this guide to Brazilian Carnival was useful! If you have any questions or comments, feel free to message me on Instagram: my handle is @janelasabertas.

Credits for the photos that illustrate this article: Luísa Ferreira/Janelas Abertas, Unsplash (Creative Commons) and Pexels (Creative Commons)